In the choppy waters off La Jolla, California, fisherman Shane Volberding battles to land a prized yellowtail, a fish highly sought after in the sushi trade. This scene encapsulates the unpredictability of California's commercial fishing sector, where the speculative nature of the catch collides with complex regulations, economic hurdles, and an aging fleet. Volberding, at 27, is one of the younger captains in a fleet where the average age is 48, and many are contemplating retirement.
The Scripps Institution of Oceanography at UC San Diego has launched an apprenticeship program to address these challenges and safeguard the supply of locally caught seafood. This initiative aims to train new commercial fishermen in fishing techniques, rules, and safety protocols, as well as guide them on marketing and selling their catch. However, the program has exposed gaps in the industry that hinder fishermen from making a living and deter newcomers.
Pay for commercial fishermen across the West Coast has plummeted over the last decade, with median annual crew pay dropping by about a third and captains' earnings plunging. In San Diego, pay rates are even lower, making it difficult for fishermen to afford living in the city. The situation is exacerbated by the fact that at least two-thirds of the seafood Americans consume is imported, with some estimates suggesting that only 10% of seafood in San Diego comes from local fishermen.
The apprenticeship program, which started in 2020, provides instruction in key aspects of the fishing trade, including Coast Guard safety protocols, fishing regulations, methods, and conservation. However, it has faced challenges in finding mentors for graduates and ensuring steady work for apprentices. Fishermen need to support each other, build their ranks, and engage the public to address these issues.
Despite these challenges, the apprenticeship program continues to train new fishermen, offering them a chance to learn the trade and contribute to the local seafood supply. However, the future of California's fishing fleet remains uncertain, and the industry must adapt to changing economic and environmental conditions to ensure its sustainability.
